RECAP: Toners, Essences, and Serums
MTM's most ambitious recap yet, all about the skincare "middles."
Coming back from special edition LA wildfire relief episodes of Makeup the Majority into a skincare 3-pack (yes, finally, skincare!) was not in the plans. I originally intended to cover just serums on Thursday, but the thought of going out of skincare step order was making my Virgo rising glitch. So, here we are — knee-deep in skin tings.
OVERVIEW
First, whats the difference between a toner vs. an essence vs. a serum?
According to Google:
Toner: A toner is important in a skincare routine because it helps remove any remaining dirt, oil, or makeup left behind after cleansing, balances the skin's pH level, tightens pores, and prepares the skin to better absorb the following products like serums and moisturizers, essentially creating a smooth base for makeup application.
Essence: The purpose of a facial essence is to hydrate and prepare the skin for other skincare products. Essences are a key step in Korean and Japanese skincare routines.
Serum: a concentrated liquid skincare product designed to deliver potent active ingredients deep into the skin, targeting specific concerns like wrinkles, discoloration, uneven texture, or dehydration. Typically applied after cleansing and toner, and before moisturizer. Lighter than a moisturizer and formulated to penetrate deeper.
Cool, cool, cool. So why do they all matter?
Well, after answering this very valid question, the significant overlaps became clear. If a toner preps the skin for the other products, then why do you need an essence? If AHAs and BHAs are in everything — is it doing too much exfoliate with a toner, adding hydration with an essence, and then exfoliating again with a serum? If serums already penetrate deep into the skin, why would we need two more things to help them do that? And then we haven’t even waded into the retinol waters yet?? Is the skincare industry just trying to (gasp) convince us of problems we may or may not actually have to upsell us?
…yeah, so as an unelected official, I don’t have the answers— I just pose the questions.
But The Majority clocked it too, because 75% of them reported not going full force with all of the “middles,” and 45% capped their usage at two — which we’ll guess are likely toners and serums, based on the responses that followed.
Here are the anecdotal highlights for you:
If you’d prefer to watch it vs. read it, I pulled the top picks for each category into a nostalgic ANTM video. Just gonna casually drop it here — not like it needs views or anything 😂
TONERS
Category winners: Paula's Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant for Clear Skin and The Ordinary Glycolic Acid 7% Exfoliating Toner
Paula’s Choice, forgive me — I was unfamiliar with your work. Paula's Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant for Clear Skin has 2K+ 5-star reviews on Sephora, it’s viral on the apps, and in every influencer’s skincare shelfie. Another interesting note: this toner has just eight ingredients in it, three of which are those buzzy, marketing-highlight ones. A skincare minimalist’s dream, wow.
Highlighted ingredients (via Sephora):
Salicylic Acid (BHA) 2%: Penetrates pores to clear blemish-causing buildup and shed dead skin
Green Tea: A potent antioxidant that soothes irritated skin while improving visible signs of aging
Methylpropanediol: Hydrates while visibly enhancing the skin’s glow and the formula’s penetration.)
Meanwhile, The Ordinary Glycolic Acid Toner previously popped up in the deodorant data, and here she is again. This toner is also neck and neck with Paula’s Choice in terms of 5-star Sephora reviews, and it has similar social media lore. Most of the hype comes from the multipurpose usage: it’s a toner, but also a scalp treatment, a deodorant, a KP solution… you clearly get a lot for $13.
Honorable mention: Byoma Hydrating Milky Toner
I’ve been seeing Byoma everywhere but was waiting for it to finally pop up in the data to match some of that online energy. I see now that this is the sleeper. But this is also where the toner vs. essence debate starts getting muddy! The function of this toner actually operates more like an essence, but I wonder if they called it a toner because the average consumer might not understand an essence? 🫠🙃🤯
From Byoma’s website:
This ultra-soothing, gentle toner works to quench dry skin while restoring sensitised and sensitive skin barriers. The comforting milky formula hydrates, calms and soothes skin from first use while protecting skin barrier function.
My favorites: OLEHENRIKSEN Glow2OH 7% AHA Exfoliating Dark Spot Toner and good light Moon Glow Milky Moisturizing Toning Lotion
OLEHENRIKSEN is a true toner, as I remember them (from my Proactiv youth). I used to rotate the Balancing Force™ Oil Control Toner with Glow2OH0— one to balance my oily days, one for skin recovery. Now that my skin has regulated a bit more (thanks to age, consistency, and moving to LA), I find I only need the “blue one” to clear up congested skin.
Glow2OH toner also just gives spa: the texture, the scent, the gentle tingle that tells me it’s working.
Then there’s good light’s Moon Glow Milky Toning Lotion, which is also bordering on toner-essence hybrid to me. I got it for free when I worked on the brand and fell in love. Toner or not, I love the oatmeal-like scent and how plump and glowy my skin feels after using it. Now that I’m reminiscing about her, I think it’s time to re-up.
ESSENCES
Category winner: COSRX Advanced Snail 96 Mucin Power Essence
The brand describes this product itself as a “serum/essence” — and I appreciate that they’re not trying to gaslight us 😂. Reviews describe COSRX Snail Mucin as a thicker gel texture, designed to deliver major hydration plus that signature K-beauty dewy glow. I feel you, constituents.
From Ulta’s website:
“Like a multivitamin for your skin, this COSRX Advanced Snail 96 Mucin Power Essence contains 96% snail mucin to nourish, repair, and plump with moisture.”
Honorable mention: Rhode Glazing Milk
Rhode, Rhode, Rhode. This product has become the most ubiquitous skincare step before every makeup routine video (at least since Glow Recipe’s Watermelon Glow Drops). ‘What does makeup have to do with it; isn’t it skincare,’ you might be wondering. Well, everything on the website says ✨skincare, essence✨; the clock app says ✨makeup, my skin but better✨; so basically ✨it’s in the brand’s best interest to let you decide✨
Anyway, it’s probably for the best (for my wallet) that Rhode is a DTC brand — curiosity would’ve definitely gotten me by now if it were on a shelf in a brick and mortar store. However, I am not a patient person, dear reader. (Especially after how long it took the Pocket Blush to arrive!)
My favorite: N/A
I’ve used Tatcha The Essence, SKII Pitera Essence, Hourglass Equilibrium Restoring Essence… and I still don’t get it, lol. Like I said during the live recap, they felt lovely but like, how are we justifying the prices for (what feels like) fancy water? All that aside, I am trying the Shani Darden Sake Nourishing Essence along with the Shani Darden Lactic Acid Serum, so maybe the secret sauce is to use two middles from the same brand to see something. Or maybe it’s just to lower my expectations. Or to just use Rhode. We’ll see!
SERUMS
Category winner: Sunday Riley Good Genes Lactic Acid Serum
Over 4K 5-star Sephora reviews later, a champion emerges. I went into this question with no expectations, but The Majority’s holy grail serum is this one! $85 for 1oz! I even took the time to clarify!
Note: as a beauty professional of 10+ years, it finally occurred to me that I’ve been very fortunate to not have to buy serums on my own (or clearly, pay attention to the price point) — and now I realize why. $80+ is very regular for ~1oz of serum?! In this economy?! To be fair, serums are designed and marketed to be the most potent and effective step in a routine, so I suppose if we’re spending, this is where it makes the most sense. I guess. 😮💨
From the top “most helpful” review on Sephora’s website:
“This was my first expensive purchase for skincare. I have been battling cystic acne for about 5 years now. I got it under control with Accutane, but the scar damage and huge pores were still an issue. After trying facials and cleansers anyone recommended, I decided to invest and buy this product that I heard great reviews about. It has absolutely transformed my skin in one month. I recommend this to anyone who has battled with huge pores and acne scars. My before and after picture shocked me!”
Honorable mention(s): Too many to name!
Check out the highlight HERE for the rundown!
My favorite: Cocokind Ceramide Barrier Serum
Last but not least — my GIRL. This serum is such an all-around team player. My biggest skin concerns at the moment aren’t even moisture-related (I’m dealing with discoloration and scarring from aggressive extractions and occasional bouts of hormonal acne), but I keep this in constant rotation just because. I’d describe it as a warm hug in my routine. Or falling asleep on the cool side of the pillow at night. And bonus points that it’s only $22! (I don’t think I’ll recover from realizing serums are just… regularly $85+ American dollars).
As always, thanks for being here! You missed being added to this round of ✨data✨ but if you’d like to play Makeup the Majority in real time, check me out on Instagram at @MAKEUPTHEMAJORITY!